Tepoztlan: A Short Trip from Mexico City

Sunset in Tepoztlan
Tepoztlan is known as a Pueblo Mágico, or magical town, for it mysticism and healing energy

The town of Tepoztlan is about an hour and a half by bus from Mexico City. It is called a Pueblo Mágico (of which there are several near CDMX) due to its spiritual energy and the surrounding nature. There aren’t a whole lot of “attractions” here but its a great break from the hustle and bustle of Mexico City. We spent almost a week here just relaxing!

How to get to Tepoztlan

We took a bus from Terminal Central del Sur to Tepoztlan. You can get to the bus station by metro (to Tasqueña), but we were running behind and opted for a Beat rideshare (similar to Uber). Uber, Cabify, Beat and Didi are all ride share options to get around Mexico City and are usually very affordable.

The bus leaves you on the edge of town, about a 20-25 minute walk from the town square. We opted for a shared minibus that dropped us in the square. I don’t remember how much it cost, but knowing me it had to be cheap ($1?) in order for me not to have walked.

It’s a small little place and easy to miss!

Since our airbnb was far from the plaza, we were able to store our luggage at the corner of Calle 5 and 22 de febrero before exploring.

What to See in Tepoztlan

Tepoztlan Cathedral
The church is free to enter and has really cool old paintings

We didn’t do much in Tepoztlan besides relax at the AirBnb. I was working most of the time and enjoyed birding from the garden. Below are some recommendations both from firsthand experience and general top attractions.

Visit the Market

It was very crowded so avoid weekends if you can. The food was very good!

We arrived on a weekend and it was very busy in the town square (I think it was also a holiday), but it was a great time to shop around. Our AirBnb host, Luis, recommended either the Los Chinelos or Yola food stalls at the market.

Chapulines cricket quesadilla
Tried a Chapulines (crickets) quesdailla

A popular food here is the blue corn itacates (like a thick triangular tortilla), which is the darker dough in the bowl in the photo, and crickets as a filling. We were adventurous here and did try the crickets (chapulines). Wasn’t horrible but not necessarily something I want to eat again.

Handwoven Zapotec rug. ~3×5 for around $110 USD
Handwoven Zapotec rug. ~3×5 for around $110 USD

After lunch we walked around the town square and shopped for local goods and artwork. We bought a painting and a handwoven rug, both of which are in our home and we absolutely love! The rug place was located on Ignacio Zaragoza street near the square and the painting store was on Pablo Gonzalez street (bottom of the hill).

Love this small canvas painting! Cost about $25 USD

Relax at a Spa

There are several spas in town. Some are only open to hotel guests, but some allow day visits. We chose Amomochtli due to a combination of good reviews, beauty and price.

Amomochtli Spa was a good balance between quality and price

This was our big ticket item of the trip. We did a temazcal which is similar to a sweat lodge. I was very nervous about this because I don’t like being hot, but it was really very tolerable and I would’ve been okay with hotter.

The views were beautiful, but the pool is only open to hotel guests. The restaurant was nice.

After the temazcal we had a couple’s massage, which was very relaxing. The end was a bit interesting: they placed our hands together and about 5 people came in to play music and dance around us (our eyes were closed, though).

hot tub and view at amomochtli spa
Before the temazcal and massage, we got to spend some time in a hot tub

Overall the was a really unique experience and I would recommend it! It was much pricier than activities I normally pay for, around $300 USD, but it was a nice day.

Hike to the Tepozteco Ruins

The #1 thing to do here is to hike up the mountain to visit the Tepozteco Pyramid. We were content hanging out at our AirBnb (and I was working during the day) so we didn’t actually do this. Oops. The views look very impressive if you’re up for the hike. The hike is accessible from the town center and there’s a small entrance fee at the top.

There are additional trails in the park but you may need to ask locals for directions. Here are some recommendations from AllTrails.

Birding

Originally, I had planned for a birding company to take us from Mexico City to Tepoztlan (birding along the way), but they had to cancel last minute. To make it up to me, they offered the tour for free in the opposite direction. Fortunately we had an afternoon flight so we were able to make this work. This is the company I contacted. We were put in touch with Miguel Aguilar.

I also did a group birding trip with them in Amatlán (a small village near Tepoztlan). This was my first time ever birding in a group and I’m not a huge fan, but it is much more affordable of course.

This was my first time birding in this area, which is always exciting! Here’s a list of the birds seen during the group tour (42 species in 3-4 hours):

American Redstart
Berylline Hummingbird
Black-chested Sparrow
Black-throated Gray Warbler
Blue-gray Gnatcatcher
Broad-billed Hummingbird
Bullock’s Oriole
Canyon Wren
Clay-colored Sparrow
Crescent-chested Warbler
Curve-billed Thrasher
Dusky Flycatcher
Dusky-capped Flycatcher
Golden Vireo

Golden-crowned Emerald
Greenish Elaenia
House Wren
Indigo Bunting
Louisiana Waterthrush
Louisiana/Northern Waterthrush
Lucifer/Beautiful Hummingbird
MacGillivray’s Warbler
Nashville Warbler
Northern Harrier
Nutting’s Flycatcher
Red-tailed Hawk
Rose-throated Becard
Ruby-crowned Kinglet
Sharp-shinned Hawk

Slate-throated Redstart
Social Flycatcher
Squirrel Cuckoo
Streak-backed Oriole
Thick-billed Kingbird
Townsend’s Warbler
Varied Bunting
Vermilion Flycatcher
Violet-crowned Hummingbird
Violet-green Swallow
Western Flycatcher (Cordilleran)
White-eared Hummingbird
White-tipped Dove
Wilson’s Warbler

The guides or other members may have marked more, but I only marked what I could see.

During the trip from Tepoztlan to the airport we stopped at several locations and saw a lot of birds, including the Aztec Thrush which is not normally found in the area. The guides were very excited to see it.

Aztec Thrush
Aztec Thrush, photo by Isain Contreras

Acorn Woodpecker
American Robin
Amethyst-throated Mountain-gem
Aztec Thrush
Band-tailed Pigeon
Black-headed Grosbeak
Black-throated Gray Warbler
Blue Mockingbird
Blue-throated Mountain-gem
Broad-tailed Hummingbird
Brown Creeper
Brown-backed Solitaire
Bushtit (melanotis Group)
Chestnut-sided Shrike-Vireo
Cinnamon-bellied Flowerpiercer
Cooper’s Hawk
Crescent-chested Warbler
Dusky-capped Flycatcher
Elegant Euphonia
Flame-colored Tanager
Golden-browed Warbler
Gray Silky-flycatcher
Gray-barred Wren
Greater Pewee
Green-striped Brushfinch
Greenish Elaenia
Hepatic Tanager
Hooded Grosbeak
House Finch
House Wren (Brown-throated)
Hutton’s Vireo (Interior)
Indigo Bunting

Lesser Goldfinch
Lincoln’s Sparrow
MacGillivray’s Warbler
Mexican Violetear
Mountain Trogon
Olive Warbler
Pine Flycatcher
Pygmy Nuthatch
Red Warbler (White-cheeked)
Red-tailed Hawk
Ruby-crowned Kinglet
Rufous-capped Brushfinch
Rufous-capped Warbler
Russet Nightingale-Thrush
Sierra Madre Sparrow
Slate-throated Redstart
Spotted Towhee (Olive-backed)
Steller’s Jay
Strickland’s Woodpecker
Striped Sparrow
Townsend’s Warbler
Tufted Flycatcher (Mexican)
Turkey Vulture
Violet-green Swallow
Warbling Vireo
Western Flycatcher (Cordilleran)
White-breasted Nuthatch
White-eared Hummingbird
White-striped Woodcreeper
White-throated Thrush
Yellow-eyed Junco (Mexican)

We saw 63 species in about 4 hours! I highly recommend Miguel and Isain Contreras as guides.

Restaurant Recommendations

In addition to Yola and Chapinero food stalls at the market, our host gave us no shortage of recommendations: Juanitos for burgers and pastas, La Taberna del Telón, La Cueva, Mariscos El Tulipan, Kua Amatlan Cafe and Resturant, and El Pan Nuestro. On our way to Amomochtli, we ate at Ombú which was very good.

Lunch in Tepoztlan at Ombu
Not the most typical food, but Carlos loved his burger at Ombú

We also ate at Mariscos El Tulipan for sunset. The food wasn’t very memorable but the sunset is beautiful! The very first picture on this post is from here too.

5 star views at El Tulipan

We went to Kua Amatlan for dinner our first night where there was live music and many expats. It’s a good option for vegetarians and vegans.

Where to Stay

I knew I would be working during the day most of the time we were in Tepoztlan, so I really wanted somewhere with a view where I could bird throughout the day. Luis’s place was perfect for this. It is a bit far from the city, 10 minutes or so by car, but it was beautiful and you can catch minibuses to go either to Tepoztlan or to Amatlan, a small village very close by.

Airbnb in Tepoztlan
Luis’s home, el Xolo Azul, is a great place to stay in Tepoztlan

Luis gave us a lot of recommendations and was available throughout our stay. Our room was a a small building with its own bathroom and coffee maker. There is also a pool onsite, though it wasn’t really hot enough to use in February.

The gardens in Tepoztlan
The wifi was strong enough for me to work outside in the gardens. Some areas even have plugs.

Since we were here for a week, I really got to know the birds in the garden. It was a nice change to be able to recognize them instead of always looking up what I was seeing. Here’s a list of what I saw over the week (35):

Berylline Hummingbird
Bewick’s Wren
Black-headed Grosbeak
Black-throated Gray Warbler
Black-vented Oriole
Blue-gray Gnatcatcher
Broad-billed Hummingbird
Dusky Flycatcher
Golden Vireo
Gray Silky-flycatcher
Greater Pewee
Hooded Oriole
Inca Dove
Indigo Bunting
Lesser Goldfinch
Lucifer/Beautiful Hummingbird
MacGillivray’s Warbler

Rose-throated Becard
Rufous-backed Robin
Rufous-capped Warbler
Russet-crowned Motmot
Rusty-crowned Ground-Sparrow
Slate-throated Redstart
Social Flycatcher
Streak-backed Oriole
Stripe-headed Sparrow
Summer Tanager
Thick-billed Kingbird
Turkey Vulture
Varied Bunting
Vermilion Flycatcher
Violet-crowned Hummingbird
Violet-green Swallow
Warbling Vireo
Wilson’s Warbler

Tepoztlan was a great town to visit. We really enjoyed a relaxing week here and got to see a lot of new birds! I hope you found this helpful and please reach out if you have any questions!

Looking for more to do in Mexico? Check out my guide to Mexico City or the Yucatan.

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